I worked on one in my time. The TD25E had a modular set up that was like the Komatsu power pod. The cross shaft and all the planetaries could be picked out of the machine in one piece. I've seen one apart but never had the pleasure of actually working on one.
The differential steering in most of the machines that have it is based on two power inputs. Use only one input and the machine goes straight. Turn the second input one way and the left track spins faster than the right track. Turn the second input the other way and the speed of right track is faster. The older Cats with one hydraulic pump steered fine as long as you didn't try to pick up the blade or ripper at the same time. I started working on diff steer Komatsu machines in When did Cat come out with their diff steer models?
John C. CascadeScaper , Jun 6, Joined: Jun 11, Messages: 1 Location: mass. Joined: Apr 11, Messages: 3 Location: wv. Hello, I'm new here also. From what I found, it will push anywhere from 4. Hope this is helpful.
Question: Several of us are trying to solve problem on D6r 9pn Transmission, left brake, and bevel gear all rebuilt. New axle on left. Machine would not move. Checked pressure, it was 0. Found gear broke gear inside transmission pump.
Replaced pump, speed sensor on torque, and two temp sensors. Pressure holds about range, but left final acts like brake is on. It will move, but not correctly and lugs engine. Two ports on top of brake, one reads zero, the other range and I can control pressure reading there with service brake.
Put new solenoid in priority valve. When you try to steer, a small hose from block on side of main hydraulic pump that goes to relief valve under main control valve assembly on right of machine jumps very hard.
Pressure on block exceeded psi gauge. Removed hose, blew through both directions, hose o. Removed steering motor with counterbalance valve attached. Reconnected hoses, ran machine. It seems to turn fine, both directions but it's not under load.
They ordered new steering motor and new counterbalance valve and two relief valves that mount under main control valve assembly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Other than that, I couldn't feel much difference between the two. CascadeScaper , Apr 12, AmerIndependent , Apr 12, LDK , Apr 12, Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website. Basic Steering Operation of a dozer. I have never gotten into the steering mechanism of a dozer and was wondering how it functioned and why the steering clutches?
First of all are they really clutches in that they remove power from one side or are they brakes that force the power to be transmitted to the other side through the differential just like you do with a tractor when you use the brakes independently of each other? If they are clutches, then does ther not also need to be a brake so that power will be transmitted to the other side other wise it would be like a tractor with one wheel jacked up and spinning.
It will not go anywhere? How are the brakes on the dozer different from the steering clutches. I have been on some smaller dozers that only had the brake pedals to steer with and the no clutch levers JD Do the smaller dozers just use the brakes to steer and the larger ones have steering clutches.
The reason for all of this is that I am thinking of building a homemade dozer, very small 10 HP or less to have fun around the property and for a project for my son and I to work on. SO how does the steering really work? Mike; I was planning on getting large sprockets and heavy conveyor chain like they use in sawmills and then get plate steel and bar stock to build the pads.
I would still need to come up with some rollers for support in the center and top. In your other comment you told of someone that used a differential and then made the comment about not having both tracks pulling. So that is why they have the clutches on a dozer. One solution would be to put hydraulic motors on each axle with a plantetary gear set. Then you could just use hyralic valves for steering. It will spin with levers back. The shaft should stop when the lever being moved engages.
Do this with both and see what happens. You may have to back off on the throttle when doing one at a time or track will probably spin.
Example- With rt lever pulled back into pivot the left forward the shaft should not spin. If it does the left clutch is slipping. Not confused and actually did something similar to what you described to check movement, but didnt watch the driveline.
I kept adjusting the adjusting screw on each side until the dozer would pivot as it should on each side. With the adjustment set up this way, what is that telling me? Worn out clutches? I like to plan major maintenance and not let it plan me if you know what I mean.
Its been raining hard here for two days, once it stops, I'll pull the floor plate and watch the driveline and see where I'm at on adjustments. I finally got to work on the dozer some yesterday and today.
I have it pushing and turning to the left as it should. When pulling the left brake lever partially back, I can feel the left steering clutch disengage the steering planetary and pulling further back the pivot brakes work as they should. As for the right lever, I cant tell any difference when pulling back the lever in regards to the steering clutch, but the brake does work. Most of the time, the right track pushes along with the left when pushing a stump out, blade load of dirt, etc.
But every now and then the right track will stop turning, not sure why. I have it at this point to keep from slipping, but to get maximum release from the clutch, or attempt to.
I'm looking for help on what I may be doing wrong or missing. I had the rear access cover off and could see the steering brake shoe on either side. There was some lining on both, but not sure if its enough or not on the right side. Again, the left side releases and pivots really nice, as it should. Both steering boosters have been rebuilt, levers are easy to pull, but the right side clutch doesn't seem to release and the dozer turns to the right on what feels like the pivot brake with a noticeable decrease in engine rpm, not a smooth easy turn.
I wish I could help but sadly in over 40years of running a C I never did master this procedure. I could make adjustments but a complete service was beyond me, had to get the dealer for that, way to many different adjustments.
One of the problems would be the fact that the 2 we have owned the only time I've ever seen inside the case was the one we scraped. I do know the original seat had a plate with the instructions screwed to the bottom, still got it hung on the wall in the shop. Good luck! Ran the dozer again this morning, I backed the pivot brake adjustment screw all the way off on the right side and now have nothing on that side.
I'm gonna check the linkage and have my son work the lever and see if I have a break somewhere or if the pin in the shaft going into the top of the case is sheared preventing the clutch from engaging. I'll post results soon. Finally figured out my problem. Prior to testing the dozer after this fix, I thought maybe I had backed the adjuster out too much, but after driving it, I realized it was like this when I bought it.
After rebuilding both steering boosters, welding up some rod ends, replacing all the clevis pins and going through the full adjustment by the book, this thing turns really nice if I do say so myself.
The parts were still good, just had to back the steering brake adjustment off, get the dog bone back in place and then readjust.
More rain in the forecast here, finally, it was getting dry.
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